In little more than two weeks—after nearly a year of gestation—I’ll be embarking on the trip of a lifetime to Cape Town, South Africa. Over the past week, I’ve begun in earnest to learn more about this exotic destination, as well as commenced making contacts with wineries in regions with engaging names such as Constantia, Franschhoek and Stellenbosch.
South Africa is lumped into the “New World” of wine producing countries, along with relative newcomers to the pursuit—the United States, Australia, New Zealand, Chile and Argentina. Yet the first dumented vintage of wine was crushed in what is now Constantia in 1659 by an early settler named Jan van Riebeeck. That’s a legacy dating back 352 years, hardly “new’, but still not in the same ancient, “Old World” class as Italy and France.
Cape Town is the largest, southern-most metropolis on the African continent, and it is a long, long ride from Sacramento. Flying time is nearly 24 hours, and when you factor in a nine-hour layover at Heathrow in London, this is not a trip for the timid. What helps make this ordeal manageable will be a respite in a 100-square-foot “Yotel” room in Terminal 4, equipped with double bed, bathroom (with shower) flat screen television and Wi-Fi, all for about $80 for five hours. A screamin’ deal, in my opinion.
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As it turns out, blogs are much easier to launch than to maintain.
I posted the first entry to this “Vintage Highway” wine blog on January 20, about 11 months ago. The basic idea was to chronicle my travels in wine country with my dog “Moose” as we toured California hauling my 1972 Airstream Globe Trotter. The concept rolled out smoothly enough for much of the year, but crapped out with my last post in August.
Moose can't always travel with me so he stays at co-worker Jana's house. . .looks as though he really misses his master!
I embarked on grand trips to Amador, Lake County, Napa, Mendocino, the Santa Lucia Highlands and other places, including parking my Airstream overnight in a parking lot on the Presidio in San Francisco where I attended an industry tasting. The whole Vintage Highway shtick culminated in September when I single-handedly organized Old Town Auburn’s Vintage Trailer Classic, when 35 vintage trailers rallied in Auburn overnight for a very cool show on the edge of the historic district. It took a Herculean effort and an enormous amount of time, but seeing crowds of people shuffle through gleaming, classic trailers was immensely satisfying.
After the parking lot emptied, however, I was decidedly overdosed on all things Airstream, and I flamed out for a couple of months. I did not even prepare a follow-up post to the show, or write about a trip to Pisoni Vineyards, where Gary and Marguritte Pisoni hosted a vineyard barbeque for an enthusiastic cadre of Carpe Vino Pinot fanatics. Moose and I parked the Airstream at the Pisoni ranch for two nights and toured and tasted along the narrow and winding River Road wine trail. Then we moved to the Santa Lucia bench and set up camp for one glorious night right on the Pisoni vineyard property, a million miles from everyone and everything. Yet, though I began drafting a post, I never finished it.
With the ramp-up to the holidays, I’ve spent much more time working with my son, Drew, in the daily grind of running a retail wine business and fine dining restaurant. Our combined efforts have paid dividends because we’ve ramped up revenues nicely in the worst of economic times, even though cash never seems to flow precisely when needed and reasonable profitability is elusive.
Two things have me juiced up at the moment, however, precipitating a renewed interest in getting words out: First, in just five weeks, I will embark on what I view as the trip of a lifetime. On January 21, I’m departing for two weeks in South Africa, with Cape Town as my base of operations.
A key part of the trip is to visit wildlife sanctuaries, but I’m reserving a significant block of time to explore the vineyards and find great juice to bring home. Wine has been made in South Africa since the 1500s, though because of an Apartheid-induced inability to export wines, quality suffered for many years. That’s all changed now, and I’ll be seeking out wines that are available in distribution in the United States (no sense falling in love with juice there that cannot be purchased here).
An overhead view of the Grand Daddy Hotel's rooftop trailer park of seven vintage Airstreams in Cape Town, South Africa.
I’m really looking forward to visiting the Grand Daddy Hotel in Cape Town to see its “Airstream Rooftop Trailer Park”, where seven silver bullets have been transformed into suites. Each trailer was assigned a theme and given to a different designer. It looks very cool, indeed, though I won’t be staying overnight.
For something different, stay overnight in a themed Airstream. . .the South African version of a suite.
Rather than fly up, I decided to do it right with an extended trip across the Northwest. Back in the day when I was in publishing, I did many an international journey where I was on the road for up to five weeks at a pop. After a couple of days I settle into a “road groove” and living out of a suitcase—or an Airstream—becomes quite manageable. . .even pleasant.
I can’t imagine a better opportunity to meet new wineries and find great juice to bring home. Who knows, maybe I’ll even make some great new hook-ups and schedule Northwest wine dinners and tastings?
So, Vintage Highway will be back on the road, soon, with an all-new, international edition. I’m also planning on doing occasional posts about new wines I discover closer to home, so stay tuned!
Classic trailers of all types to converge on Old Town Auburn, CA, on September 25 and 26.
Since I had my Airstream polished earlier this year, it turns heads where ever I take it. Driving in the slow lane on freeways, other drivers honk and wave as they pass by. Seems like everyone gets a kick out of old travel trailers, and as I learned quickly when I started organizing an exhibition for this fall in Old Town Auburn, there are many people passionate about them.
In April, I participated in an event called the Coloma Campout, held annually at a campground near the Gold Discovery site about 15 miles from Auburn. This gathering drew nearly 50 vintage trailers, and though it was not open to the public, everyone granted tours to other participants.
It was so much fun, I thought it would be very cool to do an event in Auburn, so I pitched the Old Town Business Association (of which I am a member) and the group loved the idea. My goal is to get at least 25 trailers to participate, and we are well on our way to hitting that mark.
I prepared a news release for local media, and rather than rewrite it for my blog, it is reproduced below, along with a fact sheet. If you own a trailer and would like to participate, please contact me as soon as possible at gary@carpevinoauburn.com or 530-308-2698.
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The very first Old Town Auburn Vintage Trailer Classic is set for September 25 and 26 in the Juror’s Parking lot across from the Placer County Courthouse in Auburn, CA, just off the Maple St. exit on I-80. Sponsored by the Old Town Business Association and Carpe Vino, a wine shop and restaurant, more than 25 vintage trailers will be on display. Visitors will be invited to get an up-close look at trailer interiors.
This is the largest coach to be displayed in Old Town Auburn in Sepetember, a 1986 Airstream, owned by Eray Honeycutt of Berkeley.
A highlight of this free event will be an entry from Vince Martinico of Newcastle, the leading expert on vintage trailers in the United States. His coaches have been featured in books, movies and television shows. Trailers on display will range from completely restored examples to those that are in rougher stages.
“California is a hotbed for RVing, and people really seem to have an appreciation and fascination for old trailers that evoke a different time and way of life,” said Gary Moffat, organizer of the event and owner of Carpe Vino in Old Town Auburn. “Vintage trailers from all over northern California will be on display, including a number of entries from enthusiasts who live in the Auburn area.”
Many of the coaches showcased will be classic Airstreams, the all-aluminum clad trailers with unique “bullet” styling, the iconic land yachts that launched a nomadic lifestyle on America’s burgeoning highway system. The brand was the brainchild of Wally Byam in the mid-1930s, and the goal for this event is to include at least one example of an Airstream representing each decade from the 1940s to the present.
“We’re anticipating at least 25 vintage trailers representing a range of makers and sizes,” Moffat said. “We’ll have everything from a 13-foot Airstream Bambi to the giant rigs in excess of 30 feet.” All trailers will be open and available for viewing, giving visitors and glimpse of beautiful wood interiors and period appointments.
Moffat, who owns a brightly polished 1972 Airstream Globe Trotter, said the event is seeking out more trailers, and anyone interested in displaying can contact him for more details at gary@carpevinoauburn.com. Though this will be a “dry camping” event with no hook-up services, participants are encouraged to stay overnight in the parking lot. On Saturday evening, Carpe Vino will host a wine and appetizers event at the restaurant in Old Town for all trailer owners participating.
One of the smallest trailers on display is a beautifully restored, pink and white 1959 Traveleze, owned by Rachel and Joel Harp of Penryn, CA.
The Old Town Auburn Vintage Trailer Classic is intended not only to be a fun event, it is also designed to encourage locals and out-of-towners to visit the historic district. “The Old Town Business Association is always searching for new ideas to draw people into our shops and restaurants,” Moffat said. “With the long-time popularity and success of Cruise Nite Downtown, we think there will significant crossover interest that will hopefully translate into good crowds.”
Moffat said the trailer show is just one of many attractions on a typical weekend: “This is a great opportunity for people to take the Saturday morning guided tour of Old Town, visit the Farmers’ Market, explore the shops and have lunch before the trailer show opens at 3 p.m.”
For more information and updates, visit www.vintagehighway.com.
Just the Facts:
Event: The Old Town Vintage Trailer Classic
Sponsors: Old Town Business Association, Carpe Vino, VintageHighway.com
Where: The Jurors’ Parking Lot, Auburn Folsom Rd and Lincoln Way, Old Town Auburn, CA
When: Saturday, September 25, 3 to 7 p.m.; Sunday, September 26, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Trailers Sought: All types, at least 30 years old, though we will be seeking a few newer Airstreams to demonstrate the evolution of the brand. Condition of trailers is not an issue. . .no matter if trailer is in rough stage or totally restored
Set up: Starting as soon as the Farmers’ Market exits on Saturday, by about 1 p.m.
Cost: No cost for exhibitors or attendees
Services: We are hoping to provide electricity; no sewer or water hookups
Exhibit: All trailers must be open for viewing.
Reception: A wine and appetizer event will be held at Carpe Vino in Old Town for all participants (no cost)
Overnight Parking: Participants are welcome to stay overnight in their trailers on Saturday, though no services are available
Promotion: This event will be highly publicized through newspapers, television, radio and direct contact with trailer and RV organizations
Confirmation Information: Name, phone number, email, trailer type, length
More information: gary@carpevinoauburn.com or call 530-308-2698.
Lake County, Part 3 of 4. . .
Gregory Graham is a no-shit kinda guy. . .okay?
He is the quintessential, no-pretense, no-hidden-agenda, what-you-see-is-what-you-get, it’s-my-way-or-the-highway, irrevocably driven winemaker.
He’s my kinda guy. . .okay?
None-the-less, I was a bit apprehensive about meeting him for the first time. Though Carpe Vino has successfully represented his brand by selling an enviable amount of his wine, Greg and I had never shaken hands. And then there was a sticky business issue that we had resolved, but I worried there might be residual feelings with which to deal.
The fact that Greg welcomed me to park my Airstream on his property for a few days helped mitigate my lingering apprehension, and after I arrived and finished setting up, he warmed up quickly. . .even though Moose—all 15 pounds of him soaking wet—was a knucklehead, attacking Greg’s boots and making a lunge for Rex, Greg’s sweetheart of a chocolate Labrador.
Greg is an accomplished and savvy winemaker who brings instant legitimacy to the Lake County AVA, a region that is a kind of awkward youth with boundless, raw energy and enthusiasm yet struggling for recognition in the presence of much more refined and proven siblings. Before launching his own label, he worked for 21 years for the Classic California Chardonnay Juggernaut, Napa’s Rombauer Vineyards, most of it as winemaker.
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Part 2 of 4 Posts. . .
It didn’t take long to get the Airstream settled in at Gregory Graham, especially since Greg agreed to back my trailer down the short grassy lane that terminated under the massive limbs of a walnut tree next to his Cabernet vineyard and adjacent to an 1,800 square foot guest house he’ll soon have available for rent. I really hate to back my Globe Trotter, particularly when other people are around. There is something particularly debilitating to one’s manhood when you fail to maneuver in a straight line in a single, sweet swing. I find it less of a blow to my ego to solicit help rather than to demonstrate my total incompetence, though in private moments while backing into a space at home, my rudimentary skills are beginning to surface.
I had an appointment for the early afternoon to meet with Matt Hughes, winemaker of Six Sigma Ranch and Winery, and it appeared to be less than 15 minutes away, so I headed straight over. The winery association’s map was a bit out of scale, so while I knew I was on the right road, my internal GPS taunted me that I had gone too far, especially when I passed Action Sanitary, a purveyor of portable potties.
No matter, I continued until a telltale vineyard appeared and I turned into Six Sigma’s 4,300-acre estate. Though there was no way I could miss the tasting room, I drove and drove and drove with my GPS alarm nagging again. Turns out it is a full two miles from the gate to the tasting room! This ranch is huge, clogged with massive trees and pierced by 38 miles of gravel roads and trails. Yet with all of this lavish space, there are just three vineyards comprising about 50 acres. . .leaving tons of room to grow and to support other agri-enterprises, such as raising beef cattle and sheep.
At the end of the day, though, this place is all about conserving a vast tract of Lake County. It is the private preserve of Kaj Ahlmann, former CEO of Employers Reinsurance, a part of GE Capital Services. At one time a board member of General Electric, Ahlmann was born in Denmark and graduated from the University of Copenhagen where he earned an MA in mathematical statistics. Though now retired, he still travels most of each month fulfilling business commitments.
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This blog will follow my monthly trips into wine country across California, Oregon, Washington and, some day, around the country. As the owner of Carpe Vino, a wine shop, wine bar and fine dining restaurant in Auburn, CA, I have direct access to the leading wineries and winemakers in the business. I’ll be traveling the back roads of wine country to find the true gems, small production wines made by truly passionate people. In my nightly blogs on the road, I’ll tell their stories and describe what I’ve seen, learned and tasted.
